Following Hadley to Spain

We rented a house about 15 miles outside of the city of Malaga on the Southern Coast of Spain, but driving to the house takes considerably longer because of the roads that wind back and forth across the mountains at seemingly impossible angles. From the house we hear roosters, the tinkling of goat bells up and down the hills, and an ongoing conversation between the neighborhood dogs. On the way up the mountain, we often see shepards leaning against canes or walking sticks, standing near their goats or sheep. They are usually older men with deeply tanned faces that watch us pass by from beneath sun hats. Since my husband is working from the country house, I have rented a small room nearby where I can work, write, and continue to rest. (Much like a certain writer we know).

My plan is to follow as much of Ernest and Hadley’s trail as I can afford. I will certainly be able to visit Paris and all of the Spain locations and hope to make it to Rapallo and Antibes. Germany and Switzerland will probably have to wait. I brought a whole suitcase of books – (yes, I know, I will need to surrender to the idea of a Kindle one of these days) – and I am once again amazed by Hadley’s compunction during her five years with Ernest. I hope to do many of the things she and Ernest did together, including (gulp) seeing a bullfight which costs upwards of 40 Euros. I will probably not be as unflappable as old Hash was, but I’d like to try it. I also brought the Hadley recordings with me and plan to post her telling of the story alongside my experiences 90 years later!

Since I am starting in Spain and planning to visit Paris in July, my trip won’t be chronological, but I am rereading both of their biographies and there is more than enough to write about as I research the Hemingway’s five years of adventure. Ernest made much of his and Hadley’s tight budget while in Europe and we are on one too – Hadley said that she and Ernest enjoyed rice and beans and beer in the cheaper cafes and I have to agree that dining out is quite expensive. We may have to wash some dishes at the Café Deux Magots, but I promise we won’t kill any pigeons in Luxembourg gardens! But at least I will get to see those wonderful places and tell you about them! As the Paris-Expat website states:

“Luckily for us Paris is a living, breathing museum and virtually all of Hemingway’s haunts are available to savor today. With minor cosmetic and plumbing improvements they exist much as they did in the 20′s.”

Here are a few photos of my first week in Spain. They are not Hemingway related, but I think you’ll enjoy them. You are also welcome to read my personal travel blog at:

Malaga is a beautiful blend of old and new architecture as you can see by the photos below. We spent one quick afternoon in Malaga and over the weekend we visited some of the nearby pueblos which are perched on hillsides and hilltops all around the city. It’s always fun to turn a corner and discover doorways, alleys and gardens that are truly magical. Take a look:

A cathedral in Malaga seen from one of the alleys

Costa del Sol – the beach in Nerja

We stopped to ask a local vendor if there were still bullfights in this ring. Yes, he said, every Sunday and they were well attended.  As we talked about it, he explained that the younger generation in Spain found bullfights cruel and wanted legislation that would end them.  He agreed that they were cruel but wanted to see them continue. After all, he said, “Life can be cruel too, no?”  We couldn’t disagree.

Let’s you and I step through this starry doorway and see what’s inside, shall we?