The Winter of 1923

In the winter of 1922 – 23, Hadley and Ernest had decided to leave Paris again while the weather was damp and cold.  In early December, Hadley met Ernest in Lausanne, Switzerland where Ernest was covering the peace conference for the Toronto Star. It was on the train to Switzerland that all of Ernest’s manuscripts were stolen from Hadley at the Paris station. By mid December, the Hemingways met their friend “Chink” Dorman-Smith for three weeks of skiing and sledding in Chamby. In February, they decided to travel to Italy to visit Ezra and Dorothy Pound and Mike Strater and his family. Although Ernest had to travel a little for the Star, they stayed in Italy until early May.

Ernest and Hadley traveled to Milan by train and then onto Rapollo and Cortina.  In Italy, Ezra showed led them on a walking tour of the countryside, which Hadley remembers fondly. They saw vineyards and olive groves and stopped each day to enjoy local cheese, figs and wine outside under the shade of “hillside trees”. It was around this time that Hadley told Ernest she was pregnant. While in Italy, Ernest wrote the short story “Cat in the Rain” and they both had their portraits painted by Mike Strater: one of Hadley and two of Ernest.  Hadley’s portrait, “in three quarter-face and thick auburn hair” has never been found.

Here is a short clip of Hadley telling Alice a funny story about their time in Italy.

Click here to listen:

Winter of 23, Italy